I entered Utah from the southwest, heading for slickrock country between the Escalante River and Hole-In-the-Rock road, not knowing what vague shadow from my past had drawn me to that particular area. Just north of Cedar City, I stopped for lunch at a promising roadside cafe.
Once inside, it was clear that I'd made a good choice. Everything about the place promised a great mix of quality and classic American quirkiness. I chose a spot at a sunny table near the window and relaxed contentedly into it.
On the paper placemat, there was an interesting account of some colorful local history which I read while waiting for table service. I found the story intriguing and, being a bit of a packrat, folded up the mat and squirreled it away in one of the cargo pockets of my hiking shorts. Seemingly by chance, the information turned out to be very useful to me a few days later. As a consequence, you will need it to follow my tale, and I include a transcription below. It's a pity though that you can't find yourself musing over it in that magnificent little cafe.
*****************The Placemat*******************************
THE ESCALANTE EXPEDITION and THE HOLY ROLLER CAFE
In July 1776, a small band of Spaniards led by two Franciscans, Silvestre VŽlez de Escalante and Francisco Atanasio Domingues, set forth from SantaÊFe, New Mexico. Their charge was to search for a hospitable route to Monterey, California.
During their subsequent months of wandering, reaching into the Utah Basin as far north and west as Provo, these explorers found no sign that a route westward actually exists.
Discouragement set in and the group became bitterly divided over whether to persist in trying to reach California. The practical friars were in favor of returning to Santa Fe. The secular elements on the other hand (chief among them Don Bernardo Miero y Pacheco - soldier, engineer, astronomer, and cartographer), wished to continue in the original pursuit. In Father Escalante's opinion, recorded in his famous journal, these laymen had "conceived great hopes of honor and profit merely from reaching California," and were unwilling to give up on those dreams.
This division caused such problems for both factions that on October 11, 1776 the band finally sought reconciliation. At the very spot now occupied by this cafe, each side presented its case, prayers were made, and the will of God was sought via the casting of lots.
Because no tolerable route westward from Utah actually exists, the lots naturally fell in favor of returning to Santa Fe. As a result, the Escalante Expedition ventured southward from here to visit the Havasupai, then eastward back to New Mexico.
On October 11, 1976, in commemoration of the 200th anniversary of the Lord's clearly having spoken at this location, Jenny and Lou Morton opened this restaurant and memorial, The Holy Roller Cafe. The attached gift shop offers a broad selection of appropriate gaming and spiritual supplies. A classic favorite is the rosary with small dice in place of beads. An eastern counterpoint is provided by Tarot cards and the I Ching.
******************************************************
After reading the placemat, I knew that I had stumbled into a rather bizarre little world. Peculiarly, I was also feeling that odd tingle of enthusiam I always associate with being spiritually warm.
After getting a menu and ordering, I felt natureÕs call and ventured to answer it. In the process, I discovered that the restroom walls of the Holy Roller Cafe bore an unusually rich collection of graffiti. Several pieces were about the foolish hopes of achieving fame and fortune just by reaching California. One suggested that God had probably been embarrassed by the craven attitude of the priests, but having to support them found it necessary to create Nevada, spoiling all existing routes west from Utah. Several Nevadans had then taken exception to the notion that their state was inhospitable. I agreed with one saying that folks knocking Nevada hadn't yet discovered meals at Winnemuca's Basque Hotel.
It went on from there, all over the walls in fine scripts from everywhere. There were treatises on gambling, God, the various Christian sorts who've colored Utah history, the natures of hope and faith, whether God would ever speak via lots or play dice with the Universe, and whether the priests might have cheated. It took me a good forty minutes to scan it to my satisfaction, during which my lunch had gotten cold. Fortunately, it had also been rewarmed by Jenny Morton's attentive daughter Felicia.
After lunch, rather than the usual mint, my check came with a pair of souvenir dice. They were threaded on a keychain with a small tag. On one side the tag said, "The Holy Roller Cafe," on the other, "Your Roll." I hadn't a clue what to make of it, but as my old leather thong was wearing thin and the new chain was sturdy, I transferred my keys to it. In this innocuous way, the fateful dice made their way into my pocket.
[PICTURE OF THE DICE]
Forebodings:
Escalante
Miero
Dice--your roll
Gods
Felicia